Pattern Review: Retro Granny Square Thayer Jacket by Grainline Studio

Written by Julie B. 11/2022

Time to get cozy! I’m not one to shy away from a bold print or pattern. So when I saw the Ruby Star Society Granny Square Honey collection I knew I needed to make something in this super fun print. After selecting the canvas fabric in the denim colorway I was on the hunt for a jacket pattern that fit the bill. 

Enter the Grainline Thayer Jacket (max 56” bust and 59” hip measurements). A vintage silhouette with interesting design details like princess seams, breast pockets with seamless topstitching, and  front and back yokes! I used the 14-30 size range and graded between size 26 at the bust and size 30 at the hips.

Now I know I did just say let’s get cozy, but I actually already run a bit warm. I was happy to work with Moss at Bolt who helped me find a lining that wouldn’t lead to me overheating. They suggested the Sand Washed Cotton Crepe fabric, which I got in the Amber color. The fabric is still breathable and it’s slick enough that I could use it for the body and the sleeves. 

The initial fun part of this project was deciding how to cut the canvas granny square pattern. I ended up doing a bias cut for the front and back yokes plus the front pockets. I think this distribution of the pattern helps it shine while also not being obvious when things aren’t perfectly matched. 

Now I’ve made jackets with and without linings, and I have to say the overall finish of a lined jacket is so lovely. The only problem is you basically make two jackets. Instructions for the jacket were detailed and helpful, but I did have some trouble when attaching the lining and outer pieces together at the sleeves. My best tip is to really make sure that the correct seams (there’s an under sleeve seam and a side seam) are lining up. Bonus tip: use fork pins, if you have them, to match seams. 

During this project I definitely hit my groove with topstitching. I only have one sewing machine but I use a really big cone of white thread and I’ve set up a system on my peg board that feeds the thread nicely. Since I’m not using the spool holder on my machine, I placed my topstitching thread there. So when I was switching between threads the spools weren’t moving, just the threads. Be prepared, I did use two full 33yds spools of topstitching thread for this project. I did run into some issues on the horizontal buttonholes being so close to the edge of the jacket causing my button foot to wobble. To help keep it level I put the other front next to it which created a seamless area for the foot to move over. 

For the finishing touches, I used a remnant of faux shearling  for the collar which added some texture and contrast. To match the metallic squares in the pattern I used buttons meant for jeans. Excited to wear this beautiful creation out and about!