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2136 NE Alberta St
Portland, OR 97211
503.287.bolt

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Jacket Weather and Seam finishes

--Meredith


I hate to admit it but the weather has officially turned to fall and we are full swing into jacket weather. Perhaps a new outer layer would help ease your transition? My closet is full of 3/4 and full-sleeved light sweaters but I'm lacking a good outerwear piece for the crisp climate. Bolt has a great variety of jacket and coat patterns--new ones from a beautiful Japanese pattern company for both adults and kids or Wendy Mullin's Built by Wendy: Coats and Jackets has great customizable options. Erica is teaching sessions of Indygo Junction's Midtown Trench down at MD for those who want and need the extra guidance. I went with SEWN's Upline Jacket because I liked the collar, the raglan sleeves, and the zipper front.


Sewn's Upline Jacket


I chose a bright color in a heavier cotton for the outer fabric and a beautiful bold Amy Butler print for the lining. I also chose one of our brass teeth separating zippers for the front and couldn't be happier with the substantial effect it gives.


Front view--Upline Jacket


Plus, there's topstitching and a back belt detail.


Collar detail--Upline Jacket


Back view--Upline Jacket


The pattern doesn't do a bag lining that would hide all the seams, but rather flat-lines the entire body and encourages you to finish the raw edge in your prefered manner. There a number of ways to do so. I decided on a Hong Kong (or bias bound) seam finish which I think gives such a professional look to the garment. It was quite time consuming but worth it, I think. And now I'm ready for fall!


inside--Upline Jacket


Bound edge detail


bound edge detail--sleeve


**Newsflash** Bolt just received a shipment of Anna Maria Horner bias tapes and they are YUMMY. What beautiful bindings, Hong Kong and otherwise, these would make!


new Anna Maria Horner bias tapes!


But since we're on the subject of seam finishes (and maybe you think I'm nutty to have finished all of those seams separately with bias tape), what are other ways to finish raw edges? For your perusal--the overlock stitch edge, the pinked edge, and the serged edge.


variety of seam finishes


The serged edge requires the use of a serger, but can trim and finish in one fell swoop. Don't own a serger? Most sewing machines come with an overlock stitch that looks like a mock serge, similar to stitch #8 in the picture below.


choosing an overlock stitch


You'll get the best results out of the overlock stitch if you sew it with an overlock foot on your machine. If your machine doesn't sew an overlock stitch, you can also finish your edge with a simple zig-zag stitch.


Overlook stitch on home sewing machine


I do love a good pinked edge sometimes. It's so vintage and classic. Instead of shears, I usually reach for my rotary cutter. I replaced the straight blade with a pinked one and now I can easily roll pinked edges. Don't forget the self-healing mat; you don't want to damage the blade or the table underneath.


pinking blade on rotary cutter

What's New

--gina


Whats new 10.5.11 018 
Whats new 10.5.11 020 
So many pretty, pretty prints since last week.  Here are some of the things that were in those boxes I showed off last week.  I promise not to tease like that too much!  The top pic is of some of the colors of Kaffe Fassett's Aboriginal Dot print we received along with some other fun brights from him and Westminster.  The lower one is a sampling of the new Ana Maria Horner LouLouThi flannel.  So cozy and colorful.  I keep imagining a simple throw of flannel and flat cotton, maybe one of these and something from Jay McCarroll's Habitat group.  I'm loving all the color!


Whats new 10.5.11 024 
Robot Factory by Caleb Gray for Robert Kaufman Fabrics.  Organic cotton base cloth!


Whats new 10.5.11 026 
A really sweet group--The Dressmaking Collection: Vintage Notions by Amy Barickman for Red Rooster Fabrics.  Fiesta-ware colors, buttons, notions, labels.


We just opened up a box from Josi at Ten14 Textiles yesterday with gorgeous, modern designs.  All hand silk screened by Josi right here in the U.S. on organic cotton base cloths.  We'll feature more on Josi and Ten14 soon, so stay tuned!

Ribbon belts

--Meredith


 


Floral belt--side view


With a simple fun-colored buckle and beautiful ribbon you can craft this belt!


Lucite Buckles


Measure an existing belt to get the right length and be sure to add for overlap at the buckle and end. I layered them wrong sides together and simply topstitched them together, pivoting at corners and including the ends that have been turned under. You could use fusible web to join the two lengths before stitching as a precaution, if you'd like. 


finishing ends


Once you have joined the two layers, slip one end through the buckle and back onto itself and stitch. You'll have to extend past the buckle enough to actually sew it on your machine.


attaching to buckle


We've got so many great ribbons in stock! You could layer them as well, using a solid grosgrain and a pretty embroidered ribbon. The buckles come in different colors too so have fun playing.


Fun with ribbon and buckles


We've also got a variety of buckles in stock. Pick your style!


Metal BucklesPlastic Buckles


Consider fabric that's been interfaced, ribbon, & faux leather.


O-ring Buckles